Thursday, January 24: Scorecard: Mike: 49, Pick-pockets: 1

Thursday, January 23: Scorecard: Mike: 49, Pick-pockets: 1

It was bound to happen eventually. Per the global authority on these matters, I've now been to almost 50 countries. And today, they finally got me. I got pick-pocketed, successfully. And the pickpocket new his craft so well, I actually respect him. A true artist!

Ironically, a few years back, I gave a talk at London's Independent Travellers' World about avoiding travel scams. I even maintain a web page on avoiding scams against travelers. And I've been accused by more than one girlfriend of being paranoid about scams and theft. I like to think that I am realistic.

But regardless, today on a crowded subway, I met my match. It was the most crowded subway I've ever been in. At rush hour, in mid-summer. It was a bit comic. I even joked with fellow passengers about it. (At least you can't get knocked down, as the mass of other bodies keeps you vertical.) I had just come from a short side-trip, and stopped by an ATM on the way back to the hotel, to cash up. Ooops.

At some point, I felt like I might be in a risky position. Unknown people were pushing up against my backpack, and they might easily have stolen my camera without me ever seeing it happen. So I removed both my book bag and my pack, and put them on the ground between my legs. I'd have kept my hands on my wallet too, if not for the need to hold onto the handholds to keep from jostling other passengers as the train surged and braked.

I felt pretty good about the safety of my wallet, as it was in a cargo pocket in my hiking shorts, with both a velcro closure and a zipper. Tough to get through both of those without me noticing, especially since I was on alert. But alas, not impossible. When I left the subway and went to buy something on the street, the pocket was wide open, and the wallet was gone. NOOOOOO!!! I was angry, but at the same time smiling. Man, these guys are good!

Here's a little post-theft analysis. With luck, something here will keep one of you from unwillingly contributing to the International Pick-pockets Retirement Fund:

What worked:

"Divide or be conquered" is a good strategy when confronting pick-pockets. Keep your valuables in several different places, so you don't lose everything if you get . I had a hidden money belt, which saved my passport and one credit card. My book bag contained my air tickets, and my backpack contained my journal and my digital camera, full of not-yet-downloaded photos. These were my 3 most valuable items, and I saved all three. (Number 4 was my wallet. If they had to get something, I am glad they got that.)

What I could have done better:

1) Use taxis when carrying luggage, if at all possible. Keep your luggage in the cab with you, not in the trunk, to prevent any games involving your luggage being held hostage.

2) NEVER, EVER combine carrying luggage (or any other tourist trappings, such as cameras) with going to the bank or ATM. You might as well paint a target on your back.

3) Don't underestimate the pickpockets. If you can put it in the pocket, they can take it out without you noticing.

4) Use a "decoy wallet" if in high-risk areas (tourist spots, bus/train/air terminals, crowded subways and buses, street festivals.) A "decoy wallet"looks like a real wallet, but contains NOTHING OF TRUE VALUE TO YOU. I bought a cheap leather wallet for $3, and stuffed it with small bills and expired credit cards.

My real wallet is now an empty cigarette box I found on the street:



With a rubber band around it, my fake wallet holds my ID, credit card and a few large bills. The decoy wallet is the stereotypical target for the pickpockets. I'm giving them what they are looking for. But with nothing of value inside. All of the valuables are inside the empty cigarette box, which no thief would think to steal. I hope. We'll see if the camouflage wallet strategy works against the world's best pickpockets.

5) Assume that thieves may be watching you as you withdraw money from the bank. Assume they may even know which pocket you put your wallet in. Until you make a long stop somewhere (a meal, or returning to your hotel), stay on alert, as you may be followed until they find a good place to launch their pick-pocketing operation. Or an outright robbery. Few things make you a better target than a wallet full of money, fresh from the bank.

Hey, on the plus side, they didn't take my wristwatch. Apparently, not even a US Secret Service detail can prevent that: http://youtube.com/watch?v=5Y7BXv5sIFc (President Bush loses his wristwatch in Albania) or http://abclocal.go.com/kgo/story?section=nation_world&id=4786565 (one of the Bush daughters is a victim of a bag-snatching right here in Buenos Aires).

Friday, January 25: The Travel Gods Smile on Me
Success! Christina, my friend back home who is house- and cat-sitting for me, was able to navigate my, ehem, "filing system," and track down the PIN numbers to my Plan B and Plan C debit cards. So once again, I am connected to the international banking system. And more importantly, I have easy access to cash for buying things like food and shelter. One can use credit cards at fancy restaurants & hotels here, but that would wreak havoc on my plan to become a temporary local.

San Francisco-based friends: Christina may be available for house-sitting assignments starting in March 2008. She's awesome, she keeps your plants and pets happy, and her rates are fair. Drop me an email if you'd like more info.